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Guide to weaving

CelineNovember 18, 2024
Celine
Guide des tissages - Label Naturel

Here are some explanations about the fabrics that make up our catalog. They will make it easier for you to understand the description of our products and will allow you to judge the quality of the raw materials used and their safety for your health and their impact on your environment.

The fabrics are characterized by their weave and by the number of warp and weft threads counted per centimeter. The weave designates the way in which the warp threads and the weft threads intertwine. There are several types of armor.

 

The cambric

The cambric is an extremely tight cotton fabric, very popular throughout the centuries and long used in the manufacture of textile articles in contact with the body such as underwear, bras and even handkerchiefs.

Soft and very resistant, Cambric is now used in the manufacture of high-end bedding products such as the casing of our down duvets, pillows and comforters. Islande. More qualitative than percale, it offers a very silky feel and a beautiful, enhancing satin appearance.

Because it is very tight with its 130 threads/cm2 (280 TC), it prevents the down from escaping from the envelope while being very quiet, unlike most of the noisier and less flexible so-called "anti-down" envelopes, often used on entry and mid-range products.

Last advantage of cambric, and not the least, its very tight weaving with interweaving of warp and weft threads protects your bedding from dust mites by making the cover from which our duvets and pillows are made almost impervious to their passage.



The loop

Terry fabrics are so called for their ability to absorb a large amount of water or any liquids.

They are made using two warp threads and one weft thread: the first warp thread, called “ background » constitutes the backbone of the textile, the second called “ effect » forms a looped surface, hence its name curly. The chain of background is worked with greater tension than that of curly, which with the use of generally soft twist cotton yarns, gives the fabric the power to retain a lot of water.

The fabric can be of type simple or double depending on whether the loops are present on one or both sides of the fabric. The most used is the type double for its maximum water absorption quality.

Obviously the quality of the cotton used is of utmost importance in the quality of the towels manufactured. Another determining criterion is the cotton weight of your sponge: the greater it is, the softer and more absorbent the sponge and the quality of the product.

For bathroom linen, the standard is 500g/m2. 600g and more guarantee you a high-end product. For bathrobes, 400g is the standard, with higher weights indicating the best products.

Opting to offer bathroom linen weighing around 400g/m2, as many major retailers do, to drive prices down, is not very serious and is obviously to the detriment of the comfort of use, the appearance and the longevity of your linen, in a word, its quality.



Cretonne

The cretonne is a resistant and strong fabric, made of hemp, linen or cotton threads on a canvas weave, with a balanced warp and weft and whose texture is square. It is mainly used for furnishing (protective covers for furniture, curtains, etc.) and household linen, particularly in the manufacture of pillow covers.


The half basket weave

The basket weave and half-woven are obtained by stacking several threads, either warp or weft, so that a braid equal in number of warp threads rises to pass the same number of weft threads, which gives a square braiding effect. The braiding can be two, three or more threads, but the appearance is all the more remarkable as the number of threads increases.

The material used can be very varied but always of regular cross-section. The largest basket weaves are made of wool, linen or even cotton.



Flannel

Originally from Wales, the flannel (“wool” in Welsh) is mainly woven from wool or cotton.

Once the weaving has been completed, the fabric is fulled, beaten and pressed to give it a beautiful felted appearance, making it impossible to distinguish the weft. The fibers are then softer to the touch.

Formerly called "pilou-pilou" by our grandmothers, cotton flannel (or brushed cotton) offers sensual softness and a constant temperature and puts an end to the inconvenience of a cold bed in winter: its enveloping and light comfort immediately adapts to the temperature of your body.

If it makes clothes more waterproof (coats or hats are often made of flannel), flannel is therefore very popular for the manufacture of quality bed linen because it is above all warm and cozy and very appreciated by connoisseurs in the cold season!



The jacquard

A fabric in jacquard is made on a special loom called a jacquard loom and can produce a weave with complex patterns.

On this loom, the weaver can control the warp threads, which makes it possible to create complex and multi-colored patterns. These fabrics are therefore more expensive but the designs do not fade or fade as can be the case with printed fabrics. The pattern is therefore not printed on a simple white canvas once the weaving has been completed, but results from the subtle interlacing of threads of different colors. The back of these fabrics may have some threads, so it is best to double them or use them in a way that does not expose the back.

Jacquard fabrics are widely used in furnishings and the manufacture of quality table linens. The most common are brocades and damasks such as the collections of tablecloths and office linens of the French Jacquard.



Micro-cotton

The micro-cotton is an extremely fine 100% cotton textile fiber with a diameter of less than 1 micron. Thanks to this fineness, it absorbs moisture much more quickly and also dries very quickly.

It is used in particular to make bathroom linen. Micro-cotton bath gloves, towels, rugs and bathrobes are both very soft and very soft.

Contrary to popular belief, micro-cotton is a 100% natural fiber (as opposed to polyester microfiber) as absorbent as cotton terry.



The honeycomb

Alternating on the surface a reticle in relief and in depth a niche, this 3-dimensional textile has unique qualities.

Woven in linen or cotton, its exceptional capacity to absorb water is intended primarily for bathroom linen or office linen. The elasticity of its mesh now also makes it suitable for the manufacture of throws that are both supple and soft, also presenting an interesting relief effect.

In the kitchen, tea towels and towels honeycomb have the particularity of being ultra absorbent and easy to maintain.

In the bathroom, sauna or spa, honeycomb is synonymous with refinement and will be appreciated for its quick-drying and comfort qualities. It is also a material particularly popular with bathrobe lovers who appreciate its feel and the fact that it is light to wear. Travelers also appreciate it for its lightness and the little space it takes up in the suitcase.

Finally, while absorbing a significant quantity of water, it requires on average 30% less space when washing and will therefore cause you to consume 30% less water! Light and compact, it fits easily into a beach bag.



Percale

The percale is a very fine, premium quality cotton fabric. In percale, the warp threads and the weft threads overlap as simply as possible: the weft thread is above then below the warp threads. Percale is expensive to weave but is strong, resistant and very popular in bed linen for its smooth, silky and soft feel.

It can be produced from any textile fiber and has no backing or right side. The term therefore describes the weaving, not the material used! Percale can therefore be a blend or made from 100% cotton.

We only offer 100% cotton percale on the site (mostly combed cotton from Egypt, the best in the world). Furthermore, all our percales have a "thread count" of at least 80 threads/cm2 so that their dense and tight weave guarantees a long life for the bed linen you are going to buy.



The satin

The satin is a supple fabric, shiny on the front and matte on the reverse, soft and which drapes superbly.
To create this fabric, one of the threads overlaps four (or more) perpendicular threads before going back under one thread and starting again. Overlapping a lot of threads in this way gives the shine and softness effect so characteristic of satin.

Satin bed linen is not only soft and shiny but guarantees your sets are very easy to maintain (especially ironing) and have a long lifespan, the weave being both dense and tight. Satin can be produced from any textile fiber. The term therefore describes the weaving, not the material used!

Of course, all the satins that we offer on the site are 100% cotton satins (mostly combed cotton from Egypt, the best in the world) and have a "thread count" of at least 110 threads/cm2.

Contrary to popular belief, cotton satin does not slip, does not creak, is not cold and is very easy to iron. Obviously, it has nothing in common with the viscose or polyester satins offered at low prices by mass retailers.



The seersucker

The name Seersucker comes from India and means “Milk and Sugar” in Persian. It refers to the two textures that coexist in this fabric.

Seersucker is a fabric with an “embossed” effect which consists of alternating smooth lines and embossed lines. This result is obtained by exerting different tensions on the loom. This material is mainly used to make bed linen whose fabric promotes heat loss and air circulation. This fabric is therefore a godsend for hot climates because it “breathes” in the truest sense of the term.

Of course, on our site the Seersucker is made of cotton. Easy to live with, Seersucker cannot be ironed!



Twill

The twill is easy to spot because it creates diagonal lines. These fabrics therefore have a clearly defined face and reverse. Depending on the number of overlapped warp threads, we obtain different effects such as herringbones or houndstooth.

It can be produced from all textile fibers. The term therefore describes the weaving, not the material used!

Twills are generally rougher than canvases. But it is above all for their inimitable style that we love them! The most popular are denim, gabardine or even tweed.



The canvas

In the case of a canvas, the warp threads and the weft threads overlap as simply as possible. The weft thread is above then below the warp threads. These fabrics are inexpensive to weave and are strong and durable; they can be produced from any textile fiber and have no backing or right side.



Velvet

The velvet is a fabric made using a particular weaving process consisting of a weft into which straight or lying threads are integrated which stand out on the right side of the fabric. These threads form ribs or loops whose heads have been shaved with a razor. Since velvet has a direction, the fabric appears lighter or darker depending on the direction of the threads. This incidence of light on the fabric is called “double tone”.

Velvet can be made from different raw materials: silk, cotton or wool velvet.

During the first washes, cotton velvet bathroom linen tends to lose fibers. This is just dust residue contained in the fabric after the terry has been shaved. Far from being a weaving defect, these residues disappear after 5 to 6 washes.
We sometimes hear that velvet bathroom linen is not absorbent. This is false! A velvet towel made from quality sponge will have significant absorption capacity. To do this, you must wipe with the loop side (the back of the towel), which is precisely the reason for its existence!

The tailor-made comfort of each material

Percale, jacquard, satin or honeycomb: each fabric has its advantages. Treat yourself to household linen designed to combine well-being, style and durability.

Browse our collections

FAQs

What is the difference between percale and satin for bed linen?
Percale is a tight weave that gives a matte, soft, breathable feel, ideal for coolness and durability. Satin uses a particular crisscross pattern that creates a smooth, shiny surface, known for its silky and elegant feel. Both are cotton, but offer very different feels.
How to maintain a jacquard fabric without damaging it?
Jacquard should be washed carefully to preserve its intricate designs. It is recommended to wash it at low temperature, use gentle spinning and avoid bleaching products. To preserve its colors and its relief, it is better to iron it on the reverse side.
Which fabric offers the best thermoregulation for sleeping?
Natural fiber fabrics such as cotton percale or linen promote good air circulation and prevent overheating. Cotton satin is also breathable but provides a more enveloping feeling. In winter, flannel is ideal for keeping body heat.
How to choose the weave (density, number of threads) for durable bed linen?
The durability of laundry largely depends on the number of threads per square centimeter. Between 80 and 120 threads/cm², we obtain laundry that is resistant and pleasant to the touch. A weave that is too loose wears the fabric faster, while a weave that is too tight can make it stiff and less breathable.
Is cotton sateen really softer than standard cotton?
Yes, cotton satin offers a much smoother and silkier feel than standard cotton thanks to its particular weave. It also reflects light more, giving a shiny and luxurious look to bedding sets, while remaining breathable and natural.
Can we mix different fabrics in the same Bedding set (mix & match)?
Absolutely. For example, combining a satin duvet cover with percale sheets allows you to enjoy the best of both worlds: silky softness and breathable freshness. This mix & match trend also allows you to play with styles and contrasts in the bedroom.
Which fabric should you choose for warm versus cold seasons?
For summer, cotton percale and linen are perfect because they keep you cool and help wick away moisture. In winter, flannel and satin provide soft warmth and enveloping comfort, ideal for cold nights.

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Specializing in textiles since 2008, I worked for several French clothing brands in Paris and Strasbourg before joining Maison de la Soie in 2020. I take care of the editorial and visual content of the site, supervise the creation of blog articles, participate in the addition of new products and manage social networks and partnerships.


Celine – Web Editorial Manager

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